Welcome back Titan Builders and Readers, Thanks for dropping in. So, I finished the shins and the pinning of the shins - so next was the legs. The bit I had been putting off, the legs are very important, they convey movement, they support the beast, they carry a lot of weight and they are fairly limited in the variety of poses if you dry fit them (DO dry fit) you'll see that the piston ring around the hips and the ankle piston pieces will limit the stride somewhat.
Firstly I drilled through each side of the upper knee bracket, seperately to ensure when both holes are done they are central and match up. Next, using these holes as a guide, mark the inner knee cog both sides and drill through this, halfway from both sides, again to ensure a central hole - this hole is for the most important pin, to prevent any movement forward out of the socket.
Once both pieces are drilled and clean, score several marks into both surfaces to be glued, this gives a better surface for the epoxy resin (I use JB Weld Plastic Weld - recommended BIGtime!) to adhere to. I used the dremel to score marks inbetween the knee socket.
Make sure the pin can go right through the holes you have drilled and cut to length using the wire cutters.
I then glued and clamped the legs whilst they dried, not in an upright or load bearing capacity - wait until the legs are done before attaching the feet. I test fitted the pose several times before committing to gluing. The lower 'nut' tab lines up with the lines around the inner knee cog, this leg is at position 3 for the forward leg, the rear leg will be slightly raised and trailing so position 4 worked best for me. Test fit twice! This is the important part - you don't want your titan to look goofy, stumbling or bolt upright rigid (maybe you might- bolt upright, not goofy!).
Here is the dried leg being glued to the forward flat foot, and here you can see my test pose rig, a Dettol bottle (great paint stripper btw) and a clamp to the hips. Not gluing the hip joint until both feet are attached and dried.
And here you can see the rear leg, foot slightly raised, and if you look carefully, the 'nut' tab is at line position number 4.
Once the feet are fully dried and firm, I drilled into the foot and through to the ankle ball joint a deep hole for a long pin. These are the second most important pins on the titan I think, means the stresses of the weight of the titan will be fully supported and spread out into the foot rather than on the ball joint itself.
And here you can see the pin in the bottom of the foot, up into the ankle. I will cap off all the pin holes with a little greenstuff, but this one is in the underside of the foot so doesn't really matter. The central foot being left clear will give me plenty of surface to pin into the base.
Thanks for dropping by. Next up, finishing of the Legs, pinning and magnetizing the Waist, starting to get real height to this 'miniature' now! Siph.
A useful link to the Warlord Titan Construction process can be found HERE.
Looking good. You are doing a much more solid job than I am.
ReplyDeleteCheers Dave, but I do hhve the advantage of watching your vids and 30mm Madness' blog before I attempted the build. Up to top Carapace now irl but blog posts scheduled throughout Dec and Jan. Need FW to get making new arms soon at this rate ;)
ReplyDeleteBase ?! Shirley she'll stand up on her own ?
ReplyDeleteStands great on own, but others have a base and it will add some more stability, my pose helps too, feet apart, one fwd and one aft.
ReplyDeleteI'm with Zzzzzz, you should Deffo call this Titan "Shirley".
ReplyDelete:) ha ha... No.
ReplyDelete